Same box, same clicks. Six things that change.
Every cabinet on this site goes together in the same order, and that order is written out on the general assembly page. This page is the short list of what is different once you get to a particular kind of cabinet.
Base Cabinets
What is different
Sides, bottom and back click up as usual, and the top is stretchers rather than a full panel so a countertop can be fastened down through them. Toe kick is fitted after the run is levelled, not while the box is on the floor.
Worth checking twice
Shim to a level top across the whole run before anything is scribed or templated. A countertop finds every high spot you left behind.
Wall Cabinets
What is different
A full top and bottom, and the back carries the load once it is hung. Build it, run a hand along every joint to confirm the clicks are seated, then hang it before the bases go in so you are not leaning over a finished base cabinet.
Worth checking twice
Set a level line on the wall first and hang to the line, not to the floor. Floors are rarely level and a run hung off one will fan out along its length.
Tall Cabinets
What is different
The same click assembly on a much longer panel, so a fully seated click on every joint matters more and the box is easier to build lying down. Get a second pair of hands for standing it up, even though you did not need one to build it.
Worth checking twice
Check your ceiling height in several places before you stand an 84 or 96 inch box upright. A ceiling that drops half an inch across the room is normal and it decides where the cabinet can go.
Vanity Cabinets
What is different
Built like a base cabinet, then cut for plumbing. Mark the waste and supply positions from the wall onto the back before you drill anything, and cut with the box supported so the panel cannot flex.
Worth checking twice
Dry fit against the rough-in before the vanity goes anywhere near a wall. Moving a cut is impossible and moving a vanity is easy.
Combination Cabinets
What is different
Multi part units arrive as more than one box. Build each box on its own, check every joint for gaps, and only then join and align them as a unit.
Worth checking twice
Align the faces to each other before you fix anything to the wall. Two boxes fastened to a wall independently will not read as one piece of furniture.
Trim and Panels
What is different
Molding, fillers, end panels and toe kick are cut on site. They are the last thing fitted and the first thing to look wrong, so they get cut against the run you actually built, never against the drawing.
Worth checking twice
Scribe fillers to the wall rather than trusting the corner to be square. Measure at both ends of every gap, because almost none of them are parallel.
Fittings vary. The carton is the authority.
Hinges, drawer glides, shelf pins, mounting hardware and any brackets come with the cabinet, and what is in one carton is not always what is in the next across different cabinet types. Check the packing list against what you have before you start, and if something is missing, file it as a claim rather than buying a substitute.
Do not improvise a fixingA replacement part is a claim and it costs you nothing. A substitute fixing you found in a drawer is the thing that voids the warranty on the cabinet you put it in.
One phone call is cheaper than one wrong cut.
Especially on vanities, tall cabinets and anything being scribed to a wall. Call with the cabinet in front of you.
- Phone
- (305) 782-7587
- Hours
- Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm ET
- Damaged or missing
- Submit a claim
Still planning the room?A designer draws the layout for free and tells you what will not fit.